The grungy black, charcoal and grey palette of the clothes echoed the cold, stormy, grey gothic vibe of Dunedin and the grunge sensibility that abounded in the early 90's. I spent my time in Dunedin swathed in black, holey woolly stockings, short velvet culottes and as many layers of wool and black eye-liner as possible. I wore workman's Norsewear socks on feet clad in well worn 6-inch black Docs. Other favourite items included my Dad's long dark brown suede jacket from the 60's and a British racing-car green crochet jersey, bought from my one respite from limited NZ fashion - the Freeman's catalog from London! My very kind mother bought me the odd piece of Nom*D or Zambesi upon visiting Dunedin and I coveted these pieces, little bits of luxury that I mixed with woolly beanies, tatty jerseys and punk t.shirts worn over black skivvys.
Designer Margi Robertson's store Plume in Dunedin used to sell Martin Margiela, Zambesi, Demeulemeester and of course, Nom*d. The brand seemed to encapsulate everything I loved about NZ fashion - dark colours, boots, asymmetrical cuts, deconstruction - the vibe was broody Vampiric angst tinged with punk/goth sensibility, and WOOL - warmth is a must in chilly Dunedin. But looking cool too! "In part, the label owes it's noir-ish aesthetic to Dunedin, a city situated in the remote, rugged surroundings of New Zealand's South Island...a university town with an international reputation for its alternative music scene, and a preternally gothic atmosphere". Very Twilight! There's a great interview with Margi from Oyster mag, here.