Showing posts with label Naomi Campbell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naomi Campbell. Show all posts

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Freedom - the 90s are back

Linda Evangelista, George Michael's 'Freedom' video, 1990
The 90's are back! Chokers, black skivvies (turtle-necks), bandeaus under suits, floral dresses, crop tops, satin slip dresses, square necklines, faded denim, suede jackets, t.shirts under strappy dresses, biker jackets, plaid shirts, Doc Martens - it's all coming back to haunt me. If only my beloved crop tops hadn't taken so long to come back into fashion. Now over 40 and having had 2 kids, my tum is no longer suitable for public consumption. I actually really loved a lot of 90's fashion.
Rosei Huntington Whiteley, Sienna Miller, and Carole Radziwill 
Brown lips on Dakota Johnson, Chrissy Teigen and Gigi Hadid
I couldn't believe seeing these shoes flicking through Australian Vogue today - I had almost identical shoes by local brand Andrea Biani in 1991! Except they had one strap over the toes and were nubuck. The chunky block heels of the 90's are definitely back in.
Coach Fall 2016
I also saw Kylie Jenner in a white t.shirt with spaghetti strap slip dress over the top at Coachella, another fave look of mine circa 1992. Kendall and Kim have also been seen in this look. Infact the Jenner/Kardashian clan and their cohorts have all been faithfully working 90's staples such as chokers, crop tops and bandeaus for the last year or so.
Kylie Jenner, Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Pia Mia and Gigi Hadid 90's looks
Make-up wise, the 90's was all about matte faces, brown, berry and brick lipstick, matte lip-liner and immaculate arched brows. Kylie Jenner is making a mint with her lipstick range and I see many 90's inspired brown & terracotta matte shades here. 
One of my biggest influences for the 90's was George Michael's Freedom video and the supermodels he enlisted. It kind of heralded the zeitgeist. Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz—to mime the lyrics. Feeling very jaded about the industry and his Sony contract making him feel like a commodity, Michael didn't want to front music videos anymore.  He saw Peter Lindbergh's portrait of the five women for the January 1990 cover of British Vogue. "I knew that George wanted everybody that was on that cover, and it had to be all the girls," Cindy said. The video was directed by newcomer David Fincher - who went on to direct Fight Club, The Social Network, The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo & Gone Girl. Hairstylist Guido did the hair, it was his first video. Now he's huge. Linda's platinum hair was a surprise - she had been up until 3am the night before bleaching it from brown to blonde. "25 years later, this video—and not my magazine covers—is what people mention the most when they approach me on the street. It's pretty incredible." Linda Evangelista, Harper's Bazaar
Stylist Camille Nickerson was responsible for most of the clothes and her 'undone beauty' epitomised this 90's trend which followed. With a meagre fashion budget, Fincher wanted a luxury sheet to swathe Christy in, "It had to be incredibly long and made of Irish linen, so that the thread count was light enough for the light to come through. And that used up the budget. So then everyone else’s clothes had to come from my wardrobe. So you have Naomi [Campbell] wearing my boyfriend’s boots and Linda [Evangelista] pulling my sweater over her head." Linda pulling the sweater up was a candid moment that Fincher liked to he recorded. The whole thing was recorded on film which contributes its gauzey, ethereal look as opposed to the crystal clear digital of today. "Through the end of the eighties, Linda, Naomi, Christy—they were all playing roles. They were film stars; they were celebrities; they were super-glamorous; they were, you know, creating dreams. And then suddenly there was this new mood, which was about reality. It was okay just to be you, and it was okay to borrow your boyfriend’s clothes, have chipped fingernails, tell it as it is. And that there’s a dream in that as well, and a beauty. That was very exciting. And important, because at the time, you know, you were also starting to have Kurt Cobain and grunge." Vogue.com
I remember being desperate for the translucent indigo eyeshadow Christy wore. Years later I read that it was grey, and the iconic palette was simply created by the cool blue lighting that gave her that dreamy hue. I wanted Cindy C's arched brows and lustrous chesnut locks, and Linda Evangelista's cheekbones. Linda used MAC's Spice lipliner which was a 90's staple, a brilliant light mocha shade that was a must-have. She wanted to do her own lips for the video. To this day it is still a favourite video. 
Cindy is still doing music vids at 50! And looking ah-mazing, as she does as 'The Headmistress' in Taylor Swift's Bad Blood. 


Tuesday, January 13, 2015

The Rise and Rise of Jourdan Dunn

British Vogue February 2015
This year British Jourdan Dunn becomes the first black model in 12 years to feature on a British Vogue cover (- although did appear on the cover in 2008 along with Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Eden Clark). The last was Naomi (natch), in 2002. Fabulous for her - but also depressing that it's taken this long.
British Vogue October 2012
Jourdan was discovered in 2006 aged 17 mucking about in Primark in London by Storm Management (shades of Kate Moss). I first read about her a few years ago in a British Vogue article about working mums & was impressed with her candor and strength when talking about getting pregnant at 18 and raising her son as a single mum whilst an aspiring model.
Jourdan Dunn & Riley, Twitter
"My boyfriend was there for the birth and then went to prison for a year, so I really needed the support of my family. Riley had his first crisis at about six months. I was so glad to have my mum with me. I went back to work after nine months - I didn't feel any pressure to go back quickly, and when I did everyone was really supportive...More than anything, having a son has made me realise I have to make shit work: I'm his voice, I'm his lifeline, I have to be driven. I think he pushed me in the right direction. I've always been ambitious, but now I have more focus. I'm more hardworking." British Vogue 2012
Photographed by Boo George, British Vogue, August 2013
Her son Riley was born with sickle cell anaemia. 'The London-born beauty wants to use her high-profile position to raise awareness of the disorder and supports the Sickle Cell Society through fundraising and charity events. "It's something people don't really know about, due to the fact it's genetic, so it doesn't have the high profile of HIV or malaria," explained Dunn. "Riley looks like a normal boy, but I can't get away from the fact that he has a serious disease." Dunn says that she is able to balance modeling with motherhood relatively easily - recalling a Victoria's Secret shoot she did while still breastfeeding. "They set up a little curtained area for me to use the breast pump," she told Sunday Times Style. "Not very glamorous, but ultimately, I'm a mother first then a model, and generally the industry is really supportive. This is a good career for a working mother." British Vogue 2012
Jourdan Dunn & Riley, Vogue article 
Jourdan has appeared in multiple shows and editorials including Burberry, Balmain, Calvin Klein, Versace, Stella McCartney, Tom Ford, Oscar de la Renta, Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg and TopShop plus became a Victoria Secret angel as well as cosmetic brands YSL Beauty and Maybelline. In 2008 Jourdan was the first black model to walk for Prada in over 10 years (since Naomi Campbell). She was however allegedly fired from Dior in 2013: "Ahahahahahaha I just [got] cancelled from Dior because of my boobs! I❤ fashion #Couture" - "I'm normally told I'm cancelled because I'm 'colored' so being cancelled because off (sic) my boobs is a minor" she explained via Twitter.
I love her 2011 Burberry shots (below). Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey said of casting Jourdan in 2011 "We wanted to create a dynamic campaign that reflects the diversity of our broad global consumer, revealing new British cast members each month, all with their own identity, embodying the different attitudes of the Burberry guy and girl. We shot on Brighton beach to celebrate the great British outdoors and our history of supporting emerging talent and to bring to life the emotion behind protection from the elements." 



With Sacha M'Baye in her first Burberry campaign, 2011 by Mario Testino 



Rocking the catwalk for Victoria's Secret
In the last year she has seemed to blow up everywhere as part of the latest Brit model it crowd, including Cara & Poppy Delevingne, Clara Paget, Georgia May Jagger and Suki Waterhouse.

Jourdan & Cara
She also appeared in Beyonce's video for Yonce, along with Joan Smalls and Chanel Iman.
And if all of this wasn't enough to keep her busy, Jourdan also has her own cooking show (Well Dunn with Jourdan Dunn) on YouTube! "It is my main priority to make sure I can cook a nice home-cooked meal for my son.  Perhaps this is owing to her fond childhood memories cooking with her grandmother where she was “mesmerized by how she would move her way through the kitchen [when creating her] experimental, spontaneous, but always perfect dishes.”
Now with Jourdan's appearance on British Vogue there has been quite a lot of media buzz, given that Naomi Campbell was their last black cover model - 12 long years ago. In September 2013 Naomi, Iman and Bethann Hardison wrote an open letter to British Vogue, urging them to acknowledge this disparity.  "No matter the intention, the result is racism. Not accepting another based on the colour of their skin is clearly beyond aesthetic." Jourdan has also been vocal about her struggles as a black model in the industry, admitting to have been rejected from shows as they didn't want "any more black girls" she said in an interview last year.
"I want to talk about what goes on. A lot of people are scared to speak up. The people who control the industry … say if you have a black face on a magazine cover it won't sell, but there's no real evidence for that. It's lazy." The Guardian, 2008
At London Fashion Week, 2014
I have to say though, she is looking a little too rail thin lately? Still, I guess that's the pressure you are under with the fashion world's spotlight on you, sad but true. Ironically, she mentions being curvy in the latest British Vogue. This obviously added to the pressure to remain super thin. "It's hard being a model regardless, and then being a black model. I have heard, 'Oh, we haven't shown any black models this season.' So blasé... It's messed up," she says. "I get uncomfortable when I read comments saying, 'I wanna look like you, I wish I had your body.' When I was growing up I didn't love myself, or like what I saw in the mirror. Curves are celebrated in Caribbean culture, so I felt the odd one out. So my message is: be happy and love yourself."
This year Jourdan features in her 4th Burberry campaign, this time with Naomi Campbell. She is also one of the faces of Burberry Beauty. "Burberry is such an iconic brand and I feel very proud to be a part of their campaign and their team. This campaign is even more special for me because I was shot with Naomi Campbell for the first time - someone who I admire and respect within the fashion industry." British Vogue 2014



More fab covers and editorials...
 i-D Magazine, September 2008
With Chanel Iman, Sessilee Lopez & Arlenis Sosa for i-D September 2009
i-D with Karlie Kloss, Spring 2011


i-D 2013 





UK Vogue October 2012
 
British Vogue UK Olympic Fashion Shoot, September 2012
Vogue US February 2013
Vogue Spain, February 2013
GQ Mexico July 2013




Allure USA July 2013



Free People 2014 campaign 
 In Zuhair Murad, 2014 GQ Men of the Year Awards in London
MTV VMAs 2014
Jourdan Dunn for Garage Magazine Fall/Winter 2014

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