Thursday, September 8, 2011

World made me do it


 
My pic of their store window, August 2011
World is one of my favourite shops. In a Warholian way, it is not just a fashion store but a 'Factory of Ideas and Experiments'. Daring, eccentric, subversive - and a bit naughty. World Brand started with Denise L'Estrange  Corbet and Francis Hooper. They met in the UK. Denise is from NZ, and was studying at the London College of Fashion & Francis was working in fashion retail & an assistant for up and comer John Galliano. They at a bus stop, they married in Edinburgh and came to NZ to work in Auckland's Fashion HQ, High St, Denise at Zambezi, Francis next door at Workshop. But retail didn't float their boats - they needed more.
  
They started to host nightclub evenings called SEX, with DJs and fashion parades. In 1989, Francis came home declaring he'd rented a space on High St to open their own store.  Scraping together $500, they opened a tiny 9.3 metre squared design & fashion store. Inspired by their love of fashion, glamour, punk & design, they wanted to sell interesting & quirky items from all over the  world and to introduce some of their favourite labels to NZ. They thought the name World's End might be God (luckily they didn't - that's the same name as Vivienne's Westwood's 1970's King's Road store). But due to the 'end' part inferring that NZ is a backwater, they shortened the name to World - & the iconic brand was born.

 
They starting out making badges & hats & bits & pieces for the store, then moved to a larger space at 18a High St in 1990 and began designing their own range in. In 1995 they entered the prestigious Benson & Hedges Fashion Awards - with an Origami dress, which won the supreme award! (which was almost thrown in the bin by a curator at Te Papa, years later!) "It was just about wanting to do something different; fun fur, astroturf - just to experiment" says Denise. "When we won the Benson & Hedges award using $10 of cardboard from Whitcoulls in 1995, it put the spotlight on us. It was about an idea - origami - not about the fabric." The Benson & Hedges Fashion Awards were a huge deal in NZ. I entered in 1992, and got a letter of commendation - but not into the final cut or the show - bugger.
World show at NZFW 2011
World's injection of drama, fluro colours and mad designs made a splash on the dark, demure landscape of NZ fashion. They put drag Queens on their catwalks.  Dubbed the 'enfants terribles' of NZ fashion, their bold, brash, dramatic designs & warm bubbly personalities captured the hearts and imagination of New Zealanders. Denise says "People loved the humour of our designs and weren’t shy about embracing  the colours and varied fabrics we used. New Zealanders have always had  an appreciation for eccentricity; beneath our society’s conventional  surface is a delightful exuberance. Everyone wants to look good - and a woman wants nothing more than to be  told she looks sexy, regardless of her age or body shape," (More here). 
 
In 1997 they among the first NZ designers to show internationally at Sydney Fashion Week, and caught the attention of influential Italian Vogue Editor Anna Piaggi. In 1999 they showed at London Fashion Week with Zambesi, Karen Walker and Nom*D -  famously named ‘the New Zealand Four’. World was also the first New Zealand brand to be awarded an MBE by Queen Elizabeth ll in 2002 for their services to fashion, as well as the first brand to have a solo exhibition at the Auckland Museum in 2004, entitled 'We Fought Fashion and Lost! WORLD 1989-2005'.
 

 


 

I discovered World upon moving to Auckland in 1997, going into their High St store. I remember artist & designer Tracey Collins with her amazing cone shaped hair & and gorgeous stylist Brent Lawler used to hang out there to. Both now longtime collaborator with World. 
 
 Styled by Brent Lawler 
My friend Reuben used to work there. Reuben is also an amazing artist (see more here) and over the past 15 years has collaborated with World several times, on menswear and most recently 'Icecream and Muscles' - Sex Museum at WORLDman, harking back to the old SEX nightclub days.  
 


 
 
 World Brand now has 9 stores in NZ. The store at High St is stunning old high ceiling, polished wooden floored building that used to be an old theatre - the perfect home for the glamorous, dramatic brand. There is also World Beauty which is an opulent cornucopia of gorgeous and beautiful things - a Libran's dream. They stock luxurious and covetable items brands such Demeter and Agent Provocateur fragrances, Diptyche candles, Philosophy and Aesop skincare, surrounded by antique fragance bottles, French art-deco flourishes, kitschy curios and taxidermy animals- a Libran's dream!  
 
 
This year New Zealand's Next Top Model final culminated at World's show for fashion week. I didn't get to attend but watched it on telly and I LOVED the jewel-like colors, sparkling Swarovski accouterments & glittery makeup. 
 


 
 
 
  
My fave Rosanaagh  (below) unfortunately didn't win, but she looked spectacular with her jet black Geisha-esque hair & glittery blood red lips.

 I loved winner Bridgette's shaggy cherry-red coat. Delish!
 
 
NZFW pics above from here  and Katherine  Lowe, girl on the  spot!
World has also joined forces with Number One Shoes to a line of fancy footwear inspired by and named after striking fashion icons such as Annie Lennox, Edie Sedgwick & Grace Jones. Check out World made me do it now!

Friday, September 2, 2011

Zambesi @ New Zealand Fashion Week 2011


I have long been a fan of iconic NZ label Zambesi, as well as Nom*D (more here). As a student in the early 90's in grungy Dunedin, I would spend hours inside the stained glass windows of Nom*D designer Margi Robertson's store Plume, marveling at beautiful Nom*D and Zambesi pieces as well as Jean Peal Gaultier, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester. It was all so glamorous and a bit punk and rock and roll and cool. I'd sometimes blow my student allowance on a piece piece Nom*D or Zambesi. I coveted these pieces - little bits of luxury I mixed with my rag tag collection of cheap chain store & vintage buys, woolly thermals and docs. So I was thrilled to get an invitation to Zambesi's show at Fashion week last night from my clever photographer & make up artist friend Owen Allison (Owen - I owe you!). Upon wondering what to wear, I was recommended I 'wear black' - good option for Zambesi! However, after a minor wardrobe crisis, I decided to go for my electric blue dress with leather jacket and homemade stud wedges. The new Viaduct Event Centre is fab, a glistening glassy jewel sitting overlooking the harbour. Walking up to the venue, there was a palpable buzz in the air as styley Bryan Boy lookalikes (Mino), stunning models & celebs tripped about. Katherine Lowe was out front looking preppy & cute in mustard trou & navy top (below) as we bustled in straight to the bar. There were lots of leather jackets there too, but also a good splash of colour that was great to see, especially acid oranges, hot pinks and verdant jade greens, with lots of chunky jewellery & red lips.Once the catwalk space opened in we tripped, me trying not to stack it in my homemade studded wedges in front of Colin Mathura-Jeffree. I sat behind Blogger Hannah McArdle, who I had just discovered yesterday via Katherine's brilliant Blog. My seat buddy "Fashion Friend Matt from Wellington" & I felt compelled to compliment her on her her fabulous lilac quiff (as I eyed up his studded Hermes cuff). The lights went down & a bass-line sounding like Black Eyed Peas 'Boom Boom Pow' started to thump, but launched into a haunting Japanesey type soundtrack, compete with gongs sounding like half Yoko Ono, half Air. Ethereal Zambesi models began drifting down the runway there was not only signature muted palettes but a vibrant shot of colour in the form of shocking yellows and electric blues injected into the collection, plus some blasts of print and creams. Textiles ranged from chunky knits & fur to sequiny metallics & slick rubbery wet-looks. MAC's deft swipes of Russian Red lippie & hi-def Cyan paint stick with Atlantic and Sky Blue eyeshadow was the prefect compliment to the look. 
  
On feet were Cherry Doc Martens and Chuck Taylor's which kind of reflects Zambesi's style and the whole vibe of the show - super cool & styley yet totally laid back & non-pretentious. The following fabulous pics are from here. The show was produced by Liz & Neville's (Zambesi founders) daughter Marisa Findlay, a lovely and talented lass who did an amazing job. As said in the NZ Herald, "Producing a fashion week show is not for the faint-hearted, with multiple elements that could go wrong - from music stopping halfway through a show, to bad lighting, to tardy models. Making sure this doesn't happen falls on the shoulders of the producer, and since New Zealand Fashion Week's inception Marissa Findlay has had her fair share of highs and lows. "(NZ Herald). Working with Marisa was model/designer/photographer/stylist and all around cool chick, fellow Southlander Terzann Elliot (below). I had to take a snap of her gorgeous McQueen clutch. These backstage pics are from Katherine Lowe's NZFW Blog. Check it out here. Afterwards it was on to the Pullman Hotel after party for delicious Zamboozi cocktails - Hendrix Gin, Elderflower and a sprig of rosemary - sipped at tables swathed in black leather - very Zambesi! I'm now sipping my Berocca and dreaming of beautiful clothes. Congratulations Zambesi on an AMAZING collection, and a fantastic show. Rather wobbly video of the show below. ..

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