New Zealand Fashion Design

Fab new book - New Zealand Fashion Design by Senior Curator @ Te Papa, Angela Lassig, is available from Te Papa.

"It is a history and a snapshot of 2010 … It has the value of capturing 2010," says Lassig. "Its approach is that of a fashion historian. I looked at a tremendous amount of material on 20th Century fashion, and brought observations that I formed and feel very strongly about. As you read, you get a feeling of the time and the relationship [between] designers. I referred to other designers in the essays, so we get an idea that they did not work in a bubble."

This gorgeous book includes 25 exclusive profiles of New Zealand's top fashion designers & over 500 full-colour illustrations! Some if my faves included are Cybele, Kate Sylvester, Lonely Hearts, NOM*D, Workshop, Helen Cherry, World & Zambesi. Fabbo!

RIP Malcolm, Godfather of Punk

1946 - 2010

Candy Darling - Superstar

I've always had a fascination for Andy Warhol, his 'Superstars', and the Factory and Studio 54. As a small-town High School art student in the 80's I was seduced by Andy Warhol's Pop Art, a mélange of acid bright colours and Superstars such as Marilyn and Mick, photos of Jerry Hall in sequined cut-to-there Halston and Bianca Jagger on a white horse, Edie Sedgewick and Andy emerging from a pot-hole from a New York street - a peep into a captivating, glamorous, Bacchanalian world that I didn't know or understand - but knew I liked.

A new documentary called 'Beautiful Darling' by James Rasin, about one of Warhol's most enigmatic and tragic Superstars has just been released. Candy Darling was born in Queens, New York, to the rather unglamorous name of James Slattery. James took to dressing as a girl at an early age. His mother told a friend of Candy's that after hearing that her son, aged 17, had been spotted dressed as a girl at the local gay club, was told by him to sit and wait at the kitchen table. Candy soon emerged form his bedroom bedecked in his mother's clothes. "I knew then...that I couldn't stop Jimmy. Candy was just too beautiful and talented."

Candy appeared in several films, including Klute with Jane Fonda - "I've had big parts in small films and small parts in big films". A muse to many, Candy beguiled musicians such as Mick Jagger & Lou Reed who immortalised her in their respective songs 'Citadel', 'Candy Says' & 'Walk on the Wild Side', and the Smiths used her image for their 1987 single cover for 'Sheila Take a Bow' (below).

"Candy says I've come to hate my body
and all that it requires in this world
Candy says I'd like to know completely
what others so discreetly talk about"

‘Candy Says’, Velvet Underground, 1972

Candy took hormones his entire life in order to have breasts, which arguably resulted in her tragic death of Hodgkins Lymphoma at 25.

Glamorous to the end - 'Candy Darling on her Deathbed'
Gelatin-silver print, Peter Hujar, 1974

In a letter penned on her deathbed, Candy wrote:

" By the time you read this I will be gone. Unfortunately before my death I had no desire left for life. Even with all my friends and my career on the upswing I felt too empty to go on in this unreal existence. I am just so bored by everything. You might say bored to death. It may sound ridiculous but is true."

First image from Mao Mag

XOXO

I am a big Gossip Girl fan. Whilst Season Three is going a bit awry storyline wise, and I'm over Little J's ridiculous ratty over bleached extensioned contrived rock chick look - I continue to adore Serena's wardrobe! Blair is working her own look, the faaaaar too stitched-up preppie crossed with Audrey Hepburn, which belies her little vixen character. And headbands - no. Leave them to girls under 5 please - or Paris Hilton.

S has the most covetable wardrobe, which is always consistent & in step with her character. For down time casual, the waist coat/jeans/boots look paired with that amazing Palomino mane is tousled chic.

Now that her character's left college, I'm missing the stylised private school uniform look - white shirt, tie & mini kilt paired with fabulous scarves and jewellery. However, the new more sophisticated look & designer dresses are to die for. For events like galas at the Met, the polo & debutante weddings, she is always poured into a designer gown that she wears with confidence, oozing sex - but not trash. Confidence is the #1 BEST accessory for a sexy dress - any sign of nerves - (i.e. head down, hunched shoulders, eyes to the floor, or worse - shrouding the outfit with a cardigan!!) - and the whole outfit is ruined.

GG Costumier Eric Daman explains his inspiration for Serena - which funnily enough, echoes my favourite look... "For Serena, she's very sexy and the sort of inspiration is Kate Moss. It's about being tousled, putting anything on and looking fabulous."

Let's take a stroll down the Upper East Side...

Bonne Chance Bunnies

Oooh I'm loving these bunnies. Found them at World Beauty, perfect for some Easter presents!

I bought Good as Gold Bunny - 'This bunny is just the sweetest little thing. Full of revelations, this little sweetpea is guaranteed to be unfailing in its loyalty and love' 

and Melancholy Teen Bunny - Save this bunny from drowning in the sea of its own woe (and from its secret pack-a-day habit that its mum doesn't know about yet...)

Big Hair!

Aaah, big hair. I’ve always been a fan, be it unintentionally with my 80’s poodle-perm, or by getting my ex 60’s model Mother backcombing my locks. I recall one day smooshing up my bedraggled locks and remarking to boyfriend “I love the just got out of bed look”. He replied with “I love the just got in to bed look.” Ha! I was lucky enough to see Alison Mosshart live at the Dead Weather last week, and she was rocking the coolest long ink-black shag which flew about as she convulsed to the music. And my head full of ‘Dust it’, it survived the heady, humid sweaty environs of the gig, plus no small amount of head thrashing. Brilliant. (Love this photo of Alison Mosshart by Shawn Brackbill)

However, as long and wavy as my hair gets – it does not like to be big. It likes to lie flat to my scalp, and the oilies don’t help. So when I discovered dry hair powder, I was elated! Not so elated when I saw the Bumble and Bumble version for around $80 at Mecca. But very excited to find Batiste dry shampoo for $16 at the local chemist. Rub into the roots and soak up the oil, puff up your hair the bottles say. Mop up oil they do like a charm. Make big hair, they do not. Thus, I was super excited when my friend and stylist supremo introduced me to’ Back combing in a bottle’ – Osis ‘Dust it’, the most amaaaazing product! Finally, without pfaffing about with rollers that don’t work, back combing, teasing & hair-spraying that drops out at the hint of a breathe of wind or turns into a lop sided crunchy helmet– I can achieve ROCK STAR HAIR!

Granted, it feels GROSS. I bit like a mélange of wax and a and, a rather unpleasant gritty feeling on your scalp. But by golly, the stuff works. I sprinkle a dusting into my scalp, rub it in a bit, poof up the roots and, et voila – big, tousled, just-been-moshing-at-a-rock-gig hair.

Some of my hair idols include Cindy C, who rocked the most impressive barnet throughout the 90's.

Another fave big hair goddess – Pammy. I love Pammy. If anyone perfects that sexy, tousled just-rolled-out-of-be-with-a-rock-star look, it’s Pammy. I don’t know if it is merely back-combing or a clip on, but I love that ‘pouf’ she gets at the top -back of her head, like ‘hair bustle’, if you will. I guess her hair is so fried, a bit of hair spray would convince it to behave anyway you like. (I'm sorry, you may balk at the pic below, but it is a great representation of Pammy's hair at it's disheveled rock chick best - and I love Tommy Lee.)

My latest big hair fave – Madonna in the latest Dolce ads, trussed up as a glam, buxom Italian housewife. Loving that uber sexy just-got-out-of-bed 60’s hair Madge! (Pics from Vanity Fair)